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ripAnswer: The settings in your Photoshop in the color management section should be "Let Printer Handle Colors", and the rendering intent setting should be set to PERCEPTUAL, not Relative Colormetric. Also when sending the image to the printer, first you must select the DTG Kiosk with White ink as the printer to print to, once you select this printer as your intended output device, you will need to go to PAGE SETUP and once in there you would then navigate to PROPERTIES and then ADVANCED. This will open up the Rip settings where we can select the correct interpreters of our image so the RIP software can match what we have on our screen. In the Printer Features section of these advanced settings, you will find the Source Profiles for RGB images as well as CMYK images, it is important that you select the correct interpreters here so the Rip can accurately decipher the correct language of our postscript code to closely match the colors and resolutions of our image. The correct source profile for RGB images should be set to NTSC 1953, and not the defaulted value of Rip-Default, and the correct interpreter for all CMYK images is NONE. Make sure these are set and the settings in Adobe Photoshop for color handling are set as well as the printer is selected to handle color and not the software. I hope this information is understandable and helps to get your blues to work more closely to what your intended color is. Also one other thing make sure that in the printer features of the advanced settings, that you have photo normal selected instead of Vivid Darker. Choosing Vivid Darker will saturate more color into your image instead of normal ink output. This setting "Vivid Darker" is only intended for printing on terry or thicker substrates where more ink saturation is required.    Buy the DTG RIP Pro Version 6 Upgrade here Read a review on the DTG RIP Pro here

The next move would be to write down the hex code (or take a picture), turn off the machine, then figure out why there is a wire hanging. The wire may not have anything to do with the problem, so keep an open mind. it sure sounds like the sort of thing which can cause that sort of problem. Wires generally are cut to fit, so there is probably only one option to where the wire is intended to go.

ANSWER: When that message is showing and the levers are down hit the pause button once quickly and just wait! If the resetter is not getting a green light you will need to reset the chip until it does. If it won't reset, one possiblity is to clean the chip with a pencil eraser. The chips can be damaged by static so make sure to ground yourself before resetting them.. Also if the cartridge is not sitting perfectly in the slot so that the chip aligns with the pins, gently move it until the square is solid on the printer display and slowly lower the levers while holding it in place.

ANSWER: When encountering the servo error there are a few things you can try ( though if the power supply failing is the problem this won't work.) Turn off printer and base. Carefully clean and lube the rails. Clean the screw drive from the very front all the way to the very back, and then lube generously especially where it connects at the front and at the back and printer. Turn base on and wait 1 minute, then turn printer on and wait one minute. Press the green button and see if it will move forward /back without servo error. It is possible you might need to manually turn the screw drive to move the printer home- then turn on in sequence, you can try it again. If this does not work you can also loosen the rail screws and try to run the printer forward and back with the rails loose. If this has success, then very gently tightening them back, run it forward and back and see if the servo error remains gone- if not loosen more again.

When you talk about having ink flow issues with just one channel, it tends to be one of the following issues: - Problem with the ink cartridge / bottle or the height of the bottle to the print head if it is a gravity feed system. - A crack or a seal in the ink tube line - A blockage in the damper or the damper not seated properly. - A damage print head Since it is only 1 channel, I would not expect it to be a problem with the maintenance station. But you may want to make sure that this is very clean as well. Since it is a new print head, I will leave that option alone as well. Do you have the same problem if you put your cleaning cartidge into this channel? Just trying to eliminate that the cartridge or bottle is not the problem. Have you tried to use a syringe to gently pull the ink from the bottom of the damper to cartridge? The reason why I ask is the damper is basically a small resevior of ink that the print head will use to pull ink from. If there is a clog in the damper, then you will have resistance with getting ink from it. Just replace the damper. If replacing the damper does not work, then there might be a clog or airblock from the ink line to the cartridge. If you are able to get ink out through the damper, then you might not be putting the damper in properly (some people call this seating the damper). Make sure there is an o-ring at the bottom of the damper that makes a tight seal with the print head. You might need to clean the bottom of the damper and where is goes into the print head for it to create a tight seal. ------------------ I did trim a small amount of the line where it connects to the elbow, thinking that maybe it had a crack in it. That didn't change much as far as I can tell. I ordered some new cartridges today from Dan and I hope that will help with the flow. It does seem a little harder to manually plunge ink up from the cyan cartridge than the others, but it is hard to tell just by gauging the pressure I have to put on it. I forgot to mention that I got all new dampers with the new head, so I don't think the dampers would be an issue. Of course, a defective one cannot be ruled out I guess. ------------------- Sounds like you are covering the standard items. There is the slight chance that it might have something to do with the ink. I have not heard of anyone else complaining about any type of ink in a long time. I know a lot of users like to strain their ink before putting it into the cartridges. If the ink was bad, putting new dampers or a print head into the printer would not resolve the problem. But again, I have not heard any problems with the ink in a long time. --------- You said that there are some cyan nozzles firing when you do a nozzle check. Are they consistent between multiple nozzle checks? If they are than that tells me it most likely is in the head. If they vary between nozzle checks than it could a damper or ink starvation issue. I have had incidence where I replaced dampers and they failed from the start. You can try checking the damper and if it is hard to pull through or the ink doesnt pull through smoothly almost like it sputters than it is probably a the damper. If you are unsure try pulling with another damper. The in should flow smoothly into the syringe with very little effort when you pull back on the plunger. Also check the nib in the bay. Make sure that it is not caked with dried ink. If it is get a foam swab with a little bit of CPS or cleaning solution and clean it of. As for the difference in why the print head pulls ink when your cleaning but may not fire when you try to print is because when you do a clean the capping station is actually pulling the ink through the head. The print head works by a process called piezoelectriciy or micro-piezo. In a nutshell this is when electricity is sent to a piezo material usually made of crystal or ceramic. When this happens these materials can expand. In side of the head there are channels were the ink is feed. On the walls of these channels is the piezo material. So when the printer is told to fire it sends electricity to that material which expand pushing just the right amount of ink threw the nozzle. This process allows for greater control of the droplet size and produces very little heat among many other benefits. Now I may be off a little bit but if you would like to learn more you can check out this website which is very informative on the process and its many uses.  

The only reason for the model change was that Epson had to alter the magenta ink, doing so caused an issue with potential clogging so they coated the head to over come the issue. The performance between the 2 are identical. There have been some quirks with the ink protection software that could cause the end user grief on the 4480 platform. Using the 4800 print engine is still desirable for these applications at this time since it's been put into practice for a few years now. If there was an appreciable difference between the 2 print engines more energy would be directed toward it. If your not going to be using Epson vivid M,C then there really is no advantage only potential problems with the ink counters. So the 4800 will be the preferred print engine until the ink counter systems among other systems within become stable on the 4880.

DTG is committed to providing you with the most up to date information regarding the processes surrounding the evolution and development of the Direct To Garment printing process. The information provided below will give some additional and most current information for the best methods of application and process to give you the best prints and wash-ability.